Human skin is one of the largest body organs and plays a protective role on human health. It functions as a physical barrier against water loss and environmental stressors that include UV radiation, reactive oxygen species, pathogens, chemical and physical agents[1]. Skin texture may undergo ageing, fragility of the dermal layer, thinning, laxity, enlarged pores, dryness, fine lines, and wrinkles as a result of chronic exposure to intrinsic and extrinsic destructive factors. Therefore, skin care is essential for maintaining its appearance and health.
With the idea of skin care gaining popularity, many sunscreens, whitening creams, and moisturizers have appeared on the market. This leads to the growing importance of the cosmetic industry, both domestic and foreign. However, many cosmetics sold are composed of synthetic chemicals, which may have side effects on the human health. Therefore, it is necessary to investigate harmless and efficient natural raw ingredients for cosmetics. Plant and microbial metabolites have the potential to cope with this challenge.
Applications
Many metabolites are widely used in skin care products for various functions, such as sun care, whitening, moisturizing and other functions. The specific descriptions are as follows.
- Metabolites used for sun care
Sun care can reduce the damage caused by UV rays. Lower eukaryotes have evolved mechanisms to synthesize secondary metabolites that interact with UV light to coordinate cell functions. For example, a microbial metabolite called mycosporine-like amino acid can absorb UV rays ranging from 310 to 360 nm and is considered a potential source of environmentally friendly sun care ingredients with significant anti-UV activity. In addition, many plant metabolites like phenylpropanoids and their glycosides are also used for sun care.
- Metabolites used for whitening
Tyrosinase is a crucial enzyme in melanin synthesis. Therefore, inhibiting the synthesis or reducing the activity of tyrosinase is the key to whitening. Metabolites of marine organisms are important compounds for whitening. For example, astaxanthin and zeaxanthin produced by Nannochloropsis oculata (Ochrophyta, Eustigmatophyceae) and H. lacustris (Chlorophyta) have anti-tyrosinase activity and can be used for whitening products. Many plant metabolites also possess whitening property, such as polyphenols.
- Metabolites used for moisturizing
Moisturizing is an important part of skin care. It is well known that moisture retention capacity is attributed to the strong interaction between water molecules and the hydrophilic –OH groups of the polysaccharides. Marine organisms produce metabolites that can be used for moisturizing. For example, algae-derived omega-6 polyunsaturated fatty acids, especially C-18 linoleic acid and gamma-linolenic acid, can be added to the oil in water emulsions to moisturize skin.
- Metabolites used for other functions
Apart from above functions, plant and microbial metabolites are used for other functions in cosmetics, such as antiaging effect, repair function, and skin lipid regulation. In addition, metabolites are also incorporated into cosmetics as fragrances and pigments to attract the attention of consumers.
What Can We Do?
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Reference
- Nowruzi, B. The cosmetic application of cyanobacterial secondary metabolites. Algal Research, 2020, 49: 101959.
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